Quilted Kitchen Sampler

Let’s make a sampler quilt out of some of the “Quilted Kitchen” quilt blocks found here at QuiltTherapy.com!  ALL of the quilt blocks are already designed to be 12″ finished, 12 1/2″ unfinished blocks. You need to do is to choose to make the ones I have put in my design or any 12 blocks of the design of your choice.  Then deicide on the colors of your sampler blocks.  You can keep the colors I created with the blocks, use your stash for an even scrappier quilt and even go all out and choose your own colors for a more complimentary and uniform look.

Well, there IS another something you will need to decide…and that is should you make all of the recipes that go with each block?  LOL

Here is the “Quilted Kitchen Sampler” quilt image:

"Quilted Kitchen Sampler" Free quilt pattern from QuiltTherapy.com and BOMquilts.com!

“Quilted Kitchen Sampler” Quilt Design

Head on over to BOMquilts.com to obtain the finishing instructions.


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    Friday Funday: Free Scrap Quilt Patterns

    “Sister’s Choice” Free Quilt Pattern designed by Cindy Carter from Carter Quilter

    “Scrappy Summer Tutorial” Free Quilt Pattern designed by Allison from Cluck Cluck Sew

    “Hugs and Kisses Scrap Quilt” Free Quilt Pattern designed by Lyn Brown from Lyn Brown’s Quilting Blog

    “Boxy Stars” Free Quilt Pattern designed by Bonnie Hunter from Quiltville

    “Scrap Happy Nine Patch” Free Quilt Pattern designed by Cindy Carter from Carter Quilter

    Share and Enjoy!

      Tutorial Tuesday: Star Light, Star Bright Table Topper

      This tutorial is sponsored by Warm & Natural Batting® From The Warm Company™


      This is a photographic tutorial.  A link to download this pattern in PDF is available at the end of this tutorial.  You need to download it so that you have the fabric requirements and cutting requirements for this quilted project.


      Lay out complimentary fabric scraps and choose the appropriate number needed for this table topper.


      When you cut out your Star Points, be sure to draw a diagonal line, corner-to-corner, on the BACK of your fabric.


      Once you have your fabric choices, this photo above shows you the fabric cuts needed for this table topper (sans the 1″ Scrappy Bright Fabric as is noted in the PDF pattern).


      Begin by making flying geese to create your Star Points.  Sew ONE (1) Star Point to ONE (1) of the 4 1/4” x 7 3/8” strips ON the line you drew.


      Next, trim off the corner of the White and Star Point fabrics 1/4″ beyond the sewn line.


      Press the Star Points toward the Star Point fabric.


      Repeat the same process as shown above, with another Star Point fabric sewn diagonally on the White fabric strip.


      Again, cut the Star Point corner 1/4″ beyond the sewn line and press the Star Points toward the Star Point Fabric.


      Now, sew TWO (2) of the Star Point strips to the left and right side of your center fabric.


      Sew the 4 1/4″ White Cornerstones to the remaining TWO (2) Star Points and then pin them and sew them to the top and bottom of your Star.


      This is a photo of the finished center of this table topper.


      Next, time to add the White left and right borders to your center star.


      Then sew the top and bottom White borders to the center star.


      Create your scrappy final Border using the images above and the cutting requirements in the PDF pattern.


      Sew the left and right scrappy borders to the center star and White border.  Then pin and sew the top and bottom scrappy borders onto the center.


      This is a photo of the finished table topper top!


      Follow up with quilting the table topper as desired.


      Finally, sew the binding onto your table topper and whip-stitch or machine stitch the binding to the back (or front, depending on your binding process) of your quilt project.


      To download a PDF of this pattern, please visit this link:

      TK Harrison is a member of The Warm Company’s Designer Endorsement Program.

      Share and Enjoy!

        Tutorial Tuesday: Machine Embroidered & Quilted Mug Rug


        I am having a blast with my new embroidery/sewing machine!  It’s been sitting in its box since I received it because I didn’t have room to set it up until I moved to my quilt studio.  For my first project, I made an embroidered and quilted mug rug…then thought of all sorts of people I wanted to make one for.  I might even make them for imaginary people, it’s that much fun!

        Ahem.  On with the show….errr, tutorial!


        • Fabric for embroidery
        • Stabilizer for embroidery
        • Scrap fabric for borders, backing & binding
        • Batting



        Cut the fabric and stabilizer for the embroidery about 2″ wider than your embroidery hoop.


        Insert your fabric and stabilizer into your embroidery hoop, pulling the fabric so that it does not have any puckers or wrinkles on it.  Secure it in the hoop and tighten the hoop so the fabric does not move around.


        Set your hoop up in your embroidery machine and choose an embroidery pattern.  Then, let the embroidery machine do all the embroidery work for you!


        Once your embroidery machine is finished, remove your fabric and stabilizer from the hoop and press flat.


        Square up your embroidery and trim the excess fabric away.


        Using fabric scraps, cut the left and right borders to your embroidery to whatever size you’d like to make your mug rug (adding in your seam allowances).


        Sew the left and right borders to your embroidered center.


        Press your left and right borders toward the scrap fabric.


        Repeat the same process with the top and bottom borders.


        Press and lightly starch the finished mug rug top.


        Create your quilt sandwich with your embroidered top, batting and backing.


        Securely pin your quilt sandwich.


        Machine quilt your mug rug in whatever pattern you prefer.


        Trim your mug rug so that the top, batting and backing are all the same size.


        Prepare your binding and bind your mug rug.


        Congratulations!  Now you have a lovely mug rug to use or gift to someone!


        Share and Enjoy!

          Tutorial Tuesday: Sew N’Slash Scrappy Pennant Points

          The purpose of making a scrappy quilt is…using up your quilt scraps.  Right?  Keeping that in mind, my tutorial today is doing just that – and ending up with some pretty rad quilt blocks, too!

          I developed my Sew N’Slash™ method of making quilt blocks in 2009 and have had a blast employing it ever since.  It’s almost fool-proof and it makes putting quilt blocks together so much easier than all that precise measuring, cutting and piecing.  The key, with Sew N’Slash™ is all in the final block cuts.

          Think of Sew N’Slash™ in terms of piecing a paper-pieced quilt block except without the paper.  That’s how I approach it when I use it.  Without further ado, let’s get started!


          Begin by choosing various fabric pieces for your blocks.  While these fabrics I’ve chosen are scraps, they are all from the same colorway.  That isn’t necessary.  The scrappier, the better!


          Determine the size you want to make your pennant point.  I decided on 60° angles and about 4 1/2″ unfinished height.


          Choose the fabrics you would like to flank your pennant point.  Lay them out with your pennant point to make sure your scrap is big enough, by length and width, to create your desired finished block size.  I found these two squares so cut them diagonally, corner-to-corner, ONE (1) time.  I only need ONE (1) green and ONE (1) blue triangle for a single Pennant Point block.


          Because I am dealing with triangles that are cut on the bias, I like to starch and press each piece of fabric before doing anything else, to reduce the chances of the fabric stretching.  Then, pin the green fabric to the pennant point and sew together with a 1/4″ seam allowance.  Once done, press toward the pennant point.


          Repeat the same sewing process to the opposite side of the pennant point (pins optional).


          Once pressed, this is what your pennant point looks like with the two flanks sewn on.


          It’s time to trim the excess fabric!  My unfinished block size is 3 1/2″ wide by 4 1/2″ long.  Using my rotating cutting board (such a quilt-fabulous invention!), I square up my block to my desired dimensions.


          After another quick spray of starch and pressing it with a hot iron, this is the finished Pennant Point block!  Repeat the process and make another one (or more).  It is always quicker to chain piece a number of blocks but if you are trying to perfect your own Sew N’Slash™ abilities, just make one or two at a time.  It does get much easier with practice!


          Ta-da!  Two Pennant Point blocks using my Sew N’Slash™ method.


          Pin the two Pennant Point blocks, right sides together, and sew them together with a 1/4″ seam allowance.


          This time, press the seams open.  It reduces the bulk for your finished Pennant Point block and makes sewing multiple blocks together a breeze without lumps and bumps.


          The finished Pennant Point block using my Sew N’Slash™ method.


          And this is an illustration of what a quilt top would look like if you wanted to create a quilt using Pennant Point blocks made with my Sew N’Slash™ method.  It definitely would be MUCH more fun with scrappier fabric choices.

          Share and Enjoy!